"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Vevcani Craziness!!!

This week has been more eventful then last week.  Monday, Maria (one of the English teachers) helped me find a man that is building me a bookcase.  So now my food will have a home and be off the floor!!!  They said it would be ready by Friday, but by the time I got home it was late so I am waiting until Monday to go and get it.  I also wanted to wait for when Maria is free because I might need help asking if they will help me bring it to my apartment.  I ordered it all by myself, but this part is a bit more tricky.  After ordering the bookcase on Monday I was on a high.

Tuesday went well too.  I had Adult Conversation hour at the American Corner and we played "never have I ever".  Each person had to say something that they have never done before. For example, I said that I had never made ajvar (the red pepper spread).  Those that had made it got a jelly bean (Jelly Bellys that I had brought with me).  At the end, the person with the most jelly beans was the most adventurous.  Macedonians love sweets so it was fun to see their reaction to the different flavored jelly beans.  As I was leaving the American Corner and walking to the bus station I thought to myself this week could not get any better.  Well I jinxed it.  I got to the bus station and as I was waiting for my usual bus a boy standing by the ticket counter told me, that there was no bus tonight. Of course I froze.  I called Ana who works at the American Corner and she called the bus station to see what was going on.  The boy was right.  They had cancelled the bus and they had nothing planned for those of us waiting for the bus.  Transportation here in Macedonia is interesting.  Most people rely on the buses, but there is no reliable organization system.  Each city has their own bus schedule. I later learned that they cancelled the bus because of the tobacco strikes and roadblocks that have been happening on the main route from Skopje to Bitola. Peace Corps has been keeping us updated on the protests, but it was interesting how it effects everything.  There were 4 boys waiting for the same bus as me and they were all going to Ohrid.  They bargained with a taxi driver and were able to find a way to get to Ohrid.  I was out of luck, being the only one going to Resen and 5 people cant go in a taxi.  Thank goodness there are Peace Corps volunteers all over Macedonia because I was able to spend the night at one of the volunteers apartments in Bitola.  It was no big deal since I was suppose to be coming into Bitola the next day anyways for a workshop with Maria.  So really it saved me a trip on the bus, but definitely got me thinking that now I have to plan for anything (meaning now I have a small overnight kit in my purse if something like this happens again).  Got to be prepared for the unexpected over here.

Wednesday was the workshop in Bitola.  It was on Learning Styles and was presented by the British Council of Macedonia.  It was very interested and I was surprised on how many English teachers attended.  The classroom was packed!!!  I was the only volunteer and everyone in the room was whispering and trying to figure out who I was after we had gone around the room and introduced ourselves, since they could tell by my accent that I was not Macedonia.  I sat with other English teachers who lived in Resen, that I did not know existed.  After the workshop the presenters were talking about the English teacher's night that is held once a month at the American Corner in Bitola because they were trying to get people to attend.  The Resen teachers started talking about how there is nothing in Resen like that for them. LIGHT-BULB!!!  My new goal is to try and contact all the English teacher in Resen and help them set up a English teacher's night here.  Once a month, a place where they can all meet and talk and host workshops.  I hope I can get this started because it is something that I think is needed here, something that they want, and something that I have a background in (all those SVEA workshops have paid off). Cross your figures for me!!  When I got back to Resen that night I had Karen and Jori staying with me.  I made them mom's famous potato soup and we talked and watched movies.  They had come down because we were all going to Vevcani the next morning.

Thursday morning we got up, caught the bus to Struga and then caught a taxi to Vevcani, a town located on the mountains separating Macedonia from Albania and where this crazy festival is held.  We arrived their early and found a place to eat by the springs.
The village was very pretty and they had walking trails along these fresh water springs.  The girls and I hung around up there for awhile while we waited for the carnival festivities to start.  At 2:30pm the parade started.  We walked down to the center of town and ran into other groups of volunteers and tourists from all over Europe.  This is a very popular event.  Everyone lined the main streets and watched the parade. The people of Vevcani, mostly the men, dress in crazy costumes, get drunk, and celebrate the Old New Year.  This carnival represents the "evil" coming in and the next day, New Years, the burn the costumes from the day before to represent the cleansing in order to have a good clean new year.  Here are some pictures from the parade:
 This was a bunch of older man.  They all wore suite and these funny masks and each had an instrument that they were playing very badly.

 The drunk who started off the parade.

 Children dress up for the carnival too.  But their costumes are more like what you would see on Halloween, cute, instead of the disgusting and scary costumes that the other people wear.


 Debbie, with the spider.  The coolest costume I saw during the parade.
 This was a big dome of sticks that a bunch of men were carrying around.  They occasionally stopped and pretended to climb out of it, you can see one of them in the middle. On Friday, the stick dome was used to fuel the fire were they burned the costumes to bring in the clean new year.

The next photo requires a WARNING.  Please move all children, adults, and animals out of the room!!!


Now when I said there were disgusting costumes this is what I meant.  This one took the cake.  A bunch of guys dressed up a babas (grandmothers, a very popular costume).  They made a bed out of wood and corn stocks.  Another guy was lying on the bed pretending to be a woman giving birth.  The baldy, who is smoking a cigarette, was the baby.  There costume was representing woman in villages and the hardship that they have to go through giving birth, but they definitely took it a little too far.

The rest of the afternoon was full of partying and celebration.  Later that night there was a concert in the center and the day ended with a fireworks show.  Some of the volunteers only came for the day, but a group of us stayed the night in Vevcani.  Since this is such a popular tourist attraction the people of Vevcani rent out their houses.  Myself and a group of 7 other girls had a very nice house where we only spend $10 per person for one night.  Cant beat that!!

Friday was the day that they burned the costumes from the day before.  Everyone came to the center of town and all those in costumes parade towards us.  They lite a fire and those in costumes started throwing masks, parts of their costumes, anything they had into it.
You can see the sticks from the dome was the main fuel for the fire and the devil next to it just makes the photo even better.
The center of town was packed and those in costumes were dancing the oro, popular dance here, around the fire.  There were no ropes or any barrier separating the spectators from the dancers so there was a lot of pushing, shoving, and falling since most of the people dancing were still drunk from the night before.  I want to see the fire and the parade better so I held my ground and stayed right in front. It was a good idea in theory until some guys started swinging around a dead pig carcass and I got pig juice on my pants.  I was done after that.  It carnival was the craziest thing I have EVER seen!!!  I have not decided if I will go back next year, but if I do I might only go for the first day.  2 days was plenty, and I left tried and smelling like dead pig.  I can cross Vevcani carnival off of the list of things to see in Macedonia, because by-gaully I saw it!!!

If you want to read more about the history of the carnival in order to understand it better here is a website I  found: http://www.struga.org/eng/vevcani_carnival.htm.

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