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Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Ajvar Making 101

The days are starting to get shorter and colder, which means that winter is right around the corner.  Time to start pulling out the long underwear and finish any last minute canning that needs to be done to survive the winter.  A few weeks ago, I went with Irena's family to their summer house to help them make their ajvar.  Ajvar is a spread made out of red peppers that Macedonians eat with bread and cheese. Its a traditional dish that they tend to eat in the Fall and Winter.

Now what I am about to share with you is the famous recipe for making ajvar.  This is TOP SECRET!!!  So do not share this recipe with any big American distribution companies.  It is a family recipe.
 First you start with peppers.  Lots and lots of peppers.  Irena's dad bought 33kg = 66lbs of peppers.
And they all had to be washed.
 That was my job. I also had to make sure that there were no bruises or cuts on the peppers and that they are not soft.  You want to make sure that the peppers are hard so they will roast nicely.
Afterward, they are nicely bathed  and then they are off to roasting.
  You have to keep rotating the peppers until they start to soften up and the skins get charred.
Irena's brother was in charge of roasting the peppers on the big stove.  It is a very tiring and hot job, but he would not let anyone else do it haha.
Irena roasting peppers on the little stove.  She came up with her own system, kind of like an assembly line, the peppers would start on the top and work their way to the bottom.
Irena's sister-in-law was in charge of prepping the garlic. She loves garlic and decided that 3 heads would probably be enough; when in fact, we only ended up using one head.
And of course the "boss" aka Irena's dad is hard at work.  Last year he did the whole process by himself, it took him 2 days.  So this year he said it felt strange having everyone else doing the work and not having anything to do.
The end result.
Once the peppers are roasted and you let them steam a little bit in a covered pot; then it is time for the messy job.....
de-skinning and de-seeding all the peppers.  This is the most tiring part and it takes quite a long time.  After I struggled with my first pepper, Irena and I worked together.  I would take off the skin and she would take out the seeds.  Taking out the seeds is the hardest part, because you have to make sure that none of the seeds stay on/in the pepper and your hands get all wet from the steam and the pepper juices.  I think it took us (myself, Irena and her sister-in-law)  about 3 hours to de-skin and de-seed all of the peppers.
Working hard.
Then we took a meat grinder and ground up all of the peppers. Once the pan was full we took it over to the big pot on the stove.  Where it cooked for the next 2 hours.
The peppers need to cook like this for about 2 hours or until all of the liquid has evaporated and the peppers stay parted (like parting the red sea).  For this part ,someone has to be stirring continuously because you have to make sure the peppers do not stick to the bottom of the pan.
I was allowed to help stir for a little bit, but then Irena did all of the stirring. After the peppers get to the right consistancy, where they start to separate, then it is time to add the oil.  You have to heat up the oil before you add it to the peppers. It cannot be room temp/straight out of the bottle.  You keep stirring and stirring until it is all worked in and you can't see a layer of oil on the top (they call it frying the peppers).

Every family makes their ajvar differently.  Some stop here (peppers and oil are the basic) and others, like Irena's family, add other things.  They add vinegar, sugar, salt, minced garlic, and parsley.  I had never had garlic in my ajvar ;and now I will never eat it without garlic.  I think that the garlic and the parsley make it even  more delicious.  After everything is fully combined, then it is time to put it in the jars. 
Irena's dad had put the jars and lids in the oven to get them hot.  You cannot add hot ajvar into room temp jars. Making the jars hot helps to seal them, which is why it lasts all winter.
Irena's dad made a little "bed" for the jars to help slow down the cooling process.  This also helps it last longer.  After 9 hours, from start to finish, we made 15 jars of ajvar.  It was a long day but well worth it.
This is how Macedonian's eat their ajvar, on a piece of bread with some cirenje (white cheese, kind of like a feta) on top.  Totally worth the 9 hours of work and something I can't wait to try and recreate back home.

3 comments:

  1. I was just surfing for an authentic ajvar recipe and how to eat it - I made one batch at home but want to make another and try it with more foods - and came across your blog. I think it's great! Love the photos and reading about your involvement in the process, which sounds like some pretty serious cooking business. Just wanted to write a little thanks! I'm off to the market now for ingredients! You make it look so yummy! : )

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  2. Such a great blog, long live Ajvar!

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  3. I became "addicted" to ajvar after living in Croatia for a summer. And some of the best commercial ajvars I've had come from Bulgaria and Macedonia. I was thinking of making it with spicier pepper types, however. I've notices that ajvars from much of former Yugoslavia come as mild or hot, and am curious if anyone knows what type of red peppers are used? I was thinking of using some red poblanos or anchos that are popular in Mexican cooking but not as hot as cayennes, or jalapenos that have turned red. Maybe I'll do a mix and just see what happens. It is important to use some vinegar since pepper alone are not very acidic and that helps to store them canned, preferably in a water bath canner for 10 minutes at a rolling boil in sterilized jars with rims and lids. Thanks for sharing your recipe. Roasting peppers is always hard work!

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